32 Comments to “where to start tiling”

1. mickbanner

   7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

   Why not use your laser level to find the highest point on the floor and full tile from floor up? Only wouldn't work if it left you a sliver at ceiling.

   (I realise in your floor is not fitted yet)

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2. Anthony Parkinson

   7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

   iv been a self employed bathroom and kitchen fitter for years and this is honestly one of the best tutorials iv seen, shows the importance of setting out and wraparound nothing worse then a slither cut

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3. Dominic william Loshi

   7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

   How do I become a perfect tiler ? What should I do

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4. Dominica Pavlova

   7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

   Thanks again for your brilliant video. Did you treat the plaster board with a waterproofing treatment before tiling? Just wondering as I am about to do the same around a bath with power shower.

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5. Lazar Jojic

   7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

   great. you are the guys who is using his brain. really nice job.

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6. J Khalaf

   7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

   What is that laser device? Do you have a video about that?

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7. IdemRedd

   7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

   This is for floors.

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8. chesshooligan 1

   7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

   I think it might be a good idea to measure the length of the tile and use multiplication rather than keep moving the tile and marking the wall.

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9. John per ardua

   7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

   Can't get over how you pronounce Height without the H. First time eard that lol.

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10. Kevin Cleary

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    large format tiles are never a good idea for wet areas, if the wall has slight dips and bows and if the tiles were not bonded with wall correctly with adhesive or if the cement fails at a later time, then these tiles are prone to fall out, think about a guillotine coming down on your naked toes or on top of your kids heas, ceramic tiles are like glass, they will shatter and splinter, smaller tiles will always have better bonding with uneven walls due to their smaller surface area and even if adhesive later drys out and pulls away from wall or tile, then the grout will still hold it in, also if it falls out it will not be as dangerous

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11. Malcolm James

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    Good video but I'm confused. ..?

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12. m1at1

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    Hi I'm tiling a bath splashback. I used mapei waterproofing kit which overhangs onto the top of the bath. How do I finish the bottom row of tiles to hide the bottom of the waterproofing; should I trim the waterproofing back maybe and then silicone?

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13. Jake Meakin

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    Just to save you some time on your future jobs mate, when you kept marking for each time from the middle you don’t need to do the other side as you’d marked from the middle so obviously it will be the same

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14. Jonathon Stanley

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    I always tile off the bath is this bad practice

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15. Francis Barr

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    I want him to come and do my bathroom in Australia all expenses paid 🙂

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16. jathorley1

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    This was the best video I’ve seen so far that I can understand.

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17. Jeffy T

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    very helpful

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18. David Harrison

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    Hi.
    Thanks for the video.
    I'm tiling my bathroom & putting in a bath, my tiles along the bath length are the same length as the wall when including the grout lines (lucky me), so my question is, as I'm starting tiling on that wall before my bath is delivered can I just start at one corner because no tiles will need to be cut until I get to the bath line?
    Also, I've just had my walls plastered, will that be a problem or should I just make sure I get the right adhesive to cater for this?
    Thanks

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19. Michael Rose

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    Hi
    This is ok for that one wall but you have three other walls with height obstacles on these other walls ie windows frames windows at different heights etc. That might work out fine on your first wall but what happens when you tile onto the next wall and come up to the window and have a really thin cut? Remember the very first tile you lay height wise dictates where every other tile will fall. Is it not easier to put a datum line around the whole room and using a length of wood mark the datum line onto it, then you can go around each wall marking all the heights /obstacles onto the wood then to the next wall and so on. Now you have all the heights and obstacles marked onto your wood/staff .placing the staff back onto the wall matching the datum line on the wall where you first marked it on your staff, now you can transfer all your heights onto your first wall, therefore bringing all your heights to one wall. Now mark your tiles including spacer gaps on the other side of the staff all the way up, now all you have to do is slide the staff up and down until you get the best cuts possible around any height obstacles.Mark under the staff and fix your battern. Now you don’t have to worry where you tiles will fall height wise all around the room, as you’ve just worked them all out.Your widths would be done separately on each wall you come to always trying to get the best cuts possible.
    Hope this help
    Mick

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20. Miguel Escorza

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    This is so wrong lol

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21. Joe Bartholomew

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    thank you. good explanation

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22. bob blunden

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    What happens when tiling the whole bathroom and it has a window do you use the sill as the level line ?? Bob

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23. Per Oskarsson

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    Is this a real crafstman? Laser and such. Doesn't he have proper eyesight and a scale? You start from the bottom!

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24. Busyboy 42

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    Fantastic tutorial. Setting out is so important and I always take my time when doing this. What can complicate setting out even further is when using a patterned tile or a tile which has a definite grain/pattern. If your tile is patterned, the setting out is crucial as the pattern needs to 'wrap' around the corners, so when you look at the corner, the 2 cuts that meet looks like a whole tile and the pattern 'picks' up. Just like decorative wallpaper. I do a lot of large format Travertine and those tiles are also naturally shady, so even more tricky!. So, basically, as I cut a tile into a corner, the bit that comes off, goes onto the wall immediately next to it. Pattern picks up, colour is the same, and corner look symmetrical. And if you have the same tiles on the floor as the walls, the lines/joints, colour/symmetry also needs to match up. Tricky!!!!

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25. Clutch Adam

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    If your starting central, why do you need to check both ways

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26. ottarvendel

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    English tiling is quite diferent from others. A good starting point is of course at the bottom. Nail a bar there (setting the second layer) and work up to the top. Finish at the bottom with the first layer which now is fitting perfect.

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27. George Shepherd

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    correct tiled many times and you should always start from centre of wall making equal tiles widths at ends both horizontally and vertically always works for me ppl

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28. planetyouranus22

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    Once ..you've got your laser crosshairs positioned, it's always a good idea to mark the lines on the wall with a pencil and straightedge. Because you can bet the laser will get knocked out of position while you're working. It always happens. Lay all your main field tiles first. Then , get your cutter out, and do the cuts round the edges of the wall. This helps to keep your work space clutter free.

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29. anthony newman

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    laser level is cheating

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30. DAVAD M DAVAD

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    Here's a great tip from Wickes and Schluter pros alike: use an exact template of the tile (paper, cardboard, wood) to pencil mark off all your tile. As you get to the sides, note how much off you are from a full tile. If it is a little, move your center over to one side so you have more tile than less for that one last tile, while subsuming the other side entirely. So, no tiny slivers on either side. You want the eye to feel balanced in any tile situation. It is, after all, about how things look. Balance is key.

    You start in the center because A. not all walls on either side are plumb or straight, and B. the wall or floor spaces will not coincide with your tile size choice. So it is always best to map out your tile setting before you do so, and your 'on-center' area should be variable so as to balance the edges of the room or wall. You need to plan exactly to the 16th. Tile has no wiggle room, it's not wood. You have to be accurate. And you have to consider how it falls on the observer. You want your tile work to be clean, balanced, and professional.

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31. Brett Richards

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    Poor mans laser is a flower watering can filled with food coloured water, 5metres of 3mm clear tubing inserted in the spout of watering can sat in centre of room raised off floor to approx tile height .Water will always find its natural level even if you were in another room or outside in daylight just put a black texta mark on water level mark on tube now that's your reference point your as good as the length of the clear tubing 100per cent accurate, Lasers can be out and not seen in daylight,

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32. Lee Lantern

    7 December, 2020 at 5:05 pm

    great video, i dont have a fancy lazer but thinking it would save some time and something to consider but i use a long drywall ruler with a water level to mark out my points after i find center and try and keep the end tiles equal also top and bottom tiles due to my OCD but you explained it perfect

    Reply